Day at the Museums

Today I went to visit some of the museums in this city.  There are many museums in Córdoba, so last week (when the volleyball game and picnic were cancelled) I planned out my day today.  I would go to five museums today- The Religious Museum of Fray Jose Antonio de San Alberto, The Juan Tejeda Museum of Religious Art, the Historical Provincial Museum of the Marques of Sobremonte, The Genaro Perez Museum of Fine Arts, and the Historical Museum of the UNC.  So for the first one:  It took me a while to find the Religions Museum, since it's hidden on the side of a church. I finally found it.  It was a small museum...originally a home for orphaned girls that this bishop made.  I was only allowed to take pictures in the courtyard, and of the plaque on his tomb. The guide showed me the kitchen, the craft room, the prayer room, and explained how life was here. It was interesting. 

Then I went a couple of blocks to the Juan de Tejeda Museum of Religious Art. The museum was easier to find than the other one, even though it is also attached to a church.  The museum is part of the old San Jose de las Carmelitas Descalzas Monastery (pictured below the entrance of the museum). It was also kind of small, and once again, I could only take pictures in the courtyard.  This museum showcases almost 200 pieces of religious art, from figures of the virgin Mary to portable altars, crosses and ceremonial robes. On the walls, many quotes from Mother Teresa were written, and the view from the courtyard is beautiful.  There are palm trees there, as well as other foliage, and you can see the cathedral from there. The brochure says that this is the same view that the nuns in the 1700s saw. All in all, it was a pretty neat place.

The view that the nuns saw.
You can see the Cathedral from here!

Only God is enough

Historical Provincial Museum
Marques Sobremonte

Then I went to the Historical Provincial Museum of the Marques of Sobre Monte, also a couple of blocks away. This museum was interesting.  Once again, not what one thinks of a museum, but interesting nonetheless.  This used to be the house of the Marques of Sobremonte, Rafael Nuñez, the first governor of colonial Córdoba. Again, only pictures of the courtyards outside. Inside, there were fancy 18th century rooms- the study, the living room, the prayer room, the music room- all very elegant.  Upstairs were the men's and women's bedrooms.  The ornate wooden and golden beds were fantastic.  As I moved on and passed the Courtyard of Honor, where a 200 year old tree stands firmly, I found the kitchens, the armory, and the slaves' quarters.  The slaves slept on sackcloths full of hay, or on a net of wood or animal skin woven on the bedframe.  A stark difference from the beds upstairs. However, it seems that the slaves in Córdoba weren't there for field work.  They were artisans, welders, carpenters, and house slaves. This museum was interesting.

The tree in the middle of the courtyard is over 200 years old
and still gives fruit

Genaro Perez

Then I went to the Genaro Perez Museum of Fine Arts. I was finally allowed to take pictures!  The museum is named after one of Córdoba's influential artists, Genaro Perez. When I entered, the guard told me that the lower level is the main collection, and the upper level are the exhibitions that change. Downstairs, there was a room with the art of Genaro.  He was a pretty good painter.  My favorite work was the ceiling of the room. There were also sculptures and other kinds of art there.  This was more like the museums one would think about. There was a class of kinder-gardeners taking a tour of the museum as well.  I guess it's good to start appreciating art early.  It was pretty good.

The ceiling was painted by Genaro Perez.
I laid down on the floor to get it all!

Finally, I went to the Museum of the UNC (Universidad Nacional de Córdoba) However, they only do guided tours, and I didn't want to wait until the next one.  Some other day.  So I went home.  I really enjoyed visiting these museums.  It's fun not just partying and having fun, but also learning and doing educational things. Next week I'll go to more. 

Culture Post 3: The Police of Córdoba

Today we had an interesting class. We always have to bring current events to class. One of them was about the police. That started a whole class conversation about the police. The police aren't so good here. Remember when I got lost and the police didn't help me? I said I had an appreciation for the police back home? Well, now I really appreciate them!

The police chief is currently being investigated for dealing drugs. The police don't really prioritize the safety of the civilians, and they work with an unbelievable racial profiling system. If one looks non-European (indigenous, mixed, etc) or if one wears baggy pants or a cap, he or she runs the risk of being arrested.  There's an incredible distrust of the police here. 

And that distrust was strengthened last December.  Apparently, the police wanted a 100% raise, so they went on strike (they are not legally allowed to, but they did anyway). With no police, chaos abounded. There were looters, people setting fires in the streets, uninhibited violence and crime for the two days of strike. The governor was in Panama at the time, but came back to try and stop this, he sent a Tweet on Twitter requesting help from the Federal Police, but who checks Twitter at 4 am? Over in Buenos Aires, the authorities saw what was happening on the news, but they cannot legally send the Federal Police unless asked to, and they would call to ask if Córdoba needed reinforcements, but the vice governor said chief of police said no. The police finally returned when the governor, who had initially refused the 100% raise, gave them a 300% raise. Later it was found out that the police had organized the looting and crime behind the scenes to make their point. 

I'm sure that the Police in the US have problems, and that when I return, I'll notice them.  However, I was shocked to learn how distrusted and unpopular the police are here. 

Culture 2: McDonalds

Like anywhere else in the world, McDonalds is here.  However, unlike many places, it's considered one of the "top" choices as far as getting fast food goes.  That was surprising to me.  In the US, McDonalds is so common that it's kind of just there.  You get it when you want something fast or when you don't want to spend a lot of money.  Here, McDonalds is a "top" fast food restaurant that you go to with your friends to celebrate, so everything is expensive! Haha imagine going to McDonalds for your first date! That might be unacceptable in the States, but it might actually be a good idea in Argentina!!  I haven't convinced myself to go and eat there, but it might be interesting to see if the food tastes different.  

Culture Post 1: Mate

So I had an amazing idea.  What if instead of writing "class was good today" over and over again, I write about parts of Argentine culture?  I think it's a good idea.

So let's do this. Episode 1: Mate

Mate and Bombilla

Mate (Mah-teh) is perhaps the most iconic drink of Argentina.  It's essentially like a tea. You put the leaves in a special cup (also called a mate) and add hot water. You drink out of it from a metal straw called a bombilla (bomb-ee-jah).  The bombilla has a filter at the bottom that keeps the leaves from coming up into your mouth. You pour the hot water (pouring/preparing it is called cebando) in and take the first sip.  Once there's no more water, you pour some more and offer it to your friends. Once they drink it and return it, you pour again and pass it to someone else, etc. Every so often, you need to add fresh leaves so that it doesn't taste bland. This goes on until everyone's had enough (you say "thank you" when you don't want any more) or until you run out of mate!

Friends drinking mate. One's sweet, and one's bitter.

You can drink your mate amargo (bitter) o con azúcar (with sugar).  You can also use fruit juice instead of hot water, but then it's not called mate anymore, but tereré.

Drinking mate is a favorite pastime of many Argentinian people. A lot of times, people will meet at the park, downtown, and other places just to sit down and enjoy some mate together. It's pretty great.  I enjoy it a lot. That's mate.

It's the modesty of who pours the best mate
It's the generosity of giving until the end
It's the hospitality of the invitation
It's the fairness of going one by one
It's the obligation to say "thank you"
At least once a day